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Cavalier Care

Preparation – Bringing Your Puppy Home
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Roycroft has been in existence since 1976. My goal has always been to produce the most temperamentally sound, healthy and beautiful Cavaliers I possibly can.  That is why every single Cavalier used in my breeding program has been officially tested for hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, and inherited eye problems before being bred; as well as being cardiologist cleared of Mitral Valve Disease within one (1) year of the date of breeding.  These test results are part of my Puppy Packet to you as I am proud of my commitment to produce the best Cavaliers possible, but good health does not end there.

I want your dog to get the best of natural care you can possibly provide.  This includes living in a "clean" environment.  What this means is that lawn chemicals should be limited to the areas of your yard where your puppy will not regularly walk or play in.  Flea preventatives should not be used unless absolutely necessary.  Do not feed your Cavalier "junk" food--occasional treats are okay.  Do NOT overfeed your Cavalier--I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!  Make sure your Cavalier has yearly checkups (every six months for elderly dogs) and that you vet checks everything I listed in my Manual--every single year.  Don't forget to take your Annual Check-Up Letter with you to have your vet fill out so you can return it to me.  Preventative maintenance is the best policy.  Treat your Cavalier just as you would a child.

Before you bring your Cavalier puppy home, you would be wise to have in your possession the following items.  Some of these items are pictured. Suggestions on where to purchase them are 
www.carealotpets.com, www.jbpropet.com, www.kvvet.com, www.revivalanimal.com, and www.cherrybrook.com .

Either an 18 X 24 inch or 21 X 30 inch wire crate,
or a 200 Vari-Kennel Size

for the bottom of the crate

**Water Bowl**
a 1 quart size metal or ceramic bowl

**Food Bowl**
a 1 pint size metal or ceramic bowl

**Dog Food**
More on that under Feeding

 **A flat natural bristle brush (below top)**


**A slicker brush (above bottom)**

**A fine or medium toothed comb**


**A flea comb (above)**

**A blunt-nosed scizzors**
for tangles and feet


**A nail cutter (above)**


**Dog Shampoo/Conditioner (above)**
My favorite shampoo is shown above, Chris Christensen
White on White is great for blenheims and tris
There are others for rubies and black & tans


**Collar or Harness**
My favorite is the Coastal adjustable collar.
It is a nylon type, about 3/8 inches wide, fully
adjustable from puppy to adult, with an easy
on/off snap closure. Shown above is a harness.

**A regular 4 or 6 foot lead**
Either a leather one, a webbed one, or one that matches the collar


**A show lead**
Which is a small nylon loop lead, approximately 4 ft. long.
This is excellent for indoor training.

Finger brush or small soft-bristled children's type

**Doggie Toothpaste**

**A clicker**

**Some dog toys and raw marrow bones**
Some favorite toys are fleecy ones, buster cubes which you put
treats into, kong types.  I do not suggest rawhides, pigs ears, etc. due
to risk of salmonella poisoning to the humans in the family, plus many
digestive obstructions that need surgery are due to these items.

Track down a veterinarian if you don't already have one--before the puppy arrives--as you will need to take your puppy to your vet within the first few days of its arrival.  Ask your friends, relatives and neighbors for references if you don’t already have one.  Visit vets, check out their clinic and personnel--rely on your common sense to tell you if this is the place you want your dog's health attended to.

Your puppy will come with a Certificate of Health signed by the vet who checked the puppy out.  A copy of this Certificate can be seen here.  This Certificate will comment on all parts of the puppy pointing out anything the vet saw and what care, if any, is needed.  Worming and record of vaccinations can also be found on this certificate.



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